The evolution of a city can be traced through its food. In 25 years, Kochi’s palate has evolved greatly, reflecting the changes in its culture, appetites and population. When the only “exotic” food experience two decades ago was Chinese, today, menus are dominated by a variety of international flavours.

Though the bigger hotels have always served continental food, smaller restaurants offering speciality cuisines have mushroomed. One of the most notable disruptions in the food scene was the explosion of biryani. Kochi saw a Malabari influx, with every street corner boasting a Malabari biryani spot. Kochi’s own biryani still had its devoted fan base, but the subtly-flavoured, small-grained Malabar biryani seemed to take over. In the past few years, biryanis from Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka came in, adding a spicy twist to the taste profile. Starting from the famed Ambur to Dindigul, Chennai and Coimbatore biryanis, Karnataka’s Donne biryani and the celebrated Hyderabadi biryani, there is a biryani to match every mood.

It is impossible to ignore the rise of the kuzhimandi phenomenon, which took the food scene by storm. The dish, popularly referred to as mandi, with its roots in Arabic cuisine, found instant resonance among food lovers. Small mandi restaurants sprouted across the length and breadth of Kerala. It was a tad cheaper than biryani and more filling too, say mandi fans. Arabic food in general, with its charcoal grills, forms a huge part of Kochi’s culinary offerings today. In a short period of time, shawaya, al-fahm and shawarma grew to be household dishes.

Pizza

Kashi Art Cafe

A cafe culture began to brew, offering gourmet food in chic settings. Cafes with a special focus on art, such as Kashi Art Cafe in Fort Kochi, were one of the earliest to emerge as a melting pot of food, art and culture. Casino Group’s Pandhal, Avenue Regent’s Cocoa Tree and Abad Group’s Cafe Canopy were among the first to enter the space. Today, the cafe scene is abuzz with new entrants bringing in their own experimental menus. In addition to the pizza chains, artisanal pizza spots popped up. Japanese and Korean ramen joints have risen in popularity, riding on the Korean drama wave, which food experts predict is here to stay.

Shawarma

Restobars mushroomed, especially in the past two years, offering a choice range of alcoholic beverages and food. These spaces are as much for families as they are for the younger crowd.

Vegan food

The emergence of the food blogger and content creator community and food aggregator platforms transformed the way people perceived food. Eating out became a regular affair, and food lovers started seeking out unique food experiences. Vegan options and sustainable platters are available today.

However, the city has circled back to its roots. Kerala’s own fish curry meals, snacks and hyperlocal flavours are in the spotlight, and Kerala’s staple porotta-beef combo still remains the favourite of the masses.